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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized gilded pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Youngsters play in a stone basin acting as sea nymphs, and adjacent rests a talking pea in a showcase, beside a imposing mound of mattresses. This is the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s widely adored storytellers. I find myself in the city of Odense, on the island of Fyn in the southern region of Denmark, to discover the writer's enduring legacy in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the local cultural center celebrating the writer, incorporating his first home. A museum representative states that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For guests who visit the city seeking fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of the city center, rerouting a major road, created the chance to reconsider how the renowned native could be honored. An international design contest awarded the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the layout. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interlinked spiral spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we move beyond simply describing Andersen, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with wit, sarcasm and viewpoint,” explains the representative. The outdoor spaces embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for large beings, it’s designed to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, an objective achieved by clever planting, experimenting with verticality, size and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote several personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The exhibition takes this approach seriously; frequently the views of his friends or excerpts of written messages are displayed to politely doubt the writer's personal account of events. “The author is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” explains the curator. The result is a engaging whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and work, thought processes and best-loved narratives. It is thought-provoking and whimsical, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus underground fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the physical town, the modest urban center of the municipality is picturesque, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The writer's influence is everywhere: the road indicators display the storyteller with his iconic top hat, bronze footmarks give a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this commitment reaches its height with the regular HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the his influence through art, dance, stage shows and musical performances.

This year, the seven-day celebration had 500 shows, most of which were without charge. While visiting Odense, I come across painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator telling stories. I listen to contemporary performances and see an remarkable nocturnal display featuring athletic artists lowering from the city building and hanging from a mechanical arm. Still to come this year are lectures, creative sessions for all ages and, expanding the narrative tradition further than the writer, the city’s yearly Magic Days festival.

All good fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and the island features 123 castles and manor houses around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to get about in this town and a “cycling highway” curves through the city centre. From Hotel Odeon, I cycle to the public harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a circuit around Stige Island, a compact territory joined by a bridge to the primary land. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here after work, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

In town, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is based on the writer's motifs and tales. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is featured when I visit, and owner the restaurateur shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he presents each course. This is a practice frequent in my time in Odense, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it appears narrating is always offered here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and the island features over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region. Going on excursions from the city, I visit the historic fortress, the region's most intact historic fortress. Despite parts are available for tours, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the princess. I contemplate if she can feel a small legume through a mound of {mattresses